Bridal slips: Some
Guidelines What to Wear
written by Laurel A. Rockefeller, White Jade Design
Bridal petticoats, for many brides, it's a decision much harder than that
of the dress itself. There are a wide range of petticoats out there and a few hoopskirts,
but very little real advice from people very knowledgeable about the subject. As a
professional who has sewn since childhood and made several of both, I would like to take
this time to provide a few when tos of bridal petticoats. There are two
categories:
hoopskirts and petticoats.
Definitions:
A petticoat is an underskirt usually using two layers if made by
commercial "bridal
slip" sources with one row (A-line) or two rows (bridal) of netting ruffles.
Historically a petticoat is any full skirt covered with ruffles whose purpose is to be
worn under a dress either alone (Romantic era) or together with a hoopskirt (1830-1870,
1950-1970).
A hoopskirt is an underskirt made of one layer of cotton using 3-6 strips of metal
(formally whalebone) placed in underside casings and sometimes covered in ruffles
(flounces). Popular widths were 90", 135", 150", and the huge 180"
seen in Roger's and Hammerstein's The King and I.
So when should I make sure I wear a hoop?
If your gown is over 115" and made from any weight of fabric, but especially light
and heavy weight fabrics
If you are under or overweight and need more waistline definition contrast--the hoop makes
you look thinner and/or enhances perception of being thin, especially those with 3 or 4
hoops.
If your gown is full and requires support of any kind...hoops are lighter, more
comfortable, and more efficient at supporting many weights of fabrics.
If your gown is especially light weight in fabric and/or has over 200 inches of
material--it needs the body of the hoop without the bulk of the petticoat
If your gown/event has a period theme/influence from 1830-1870, 1950-1970. Many heirloom
gowns fit under these time ranges where hoops were worn either daily or for formal
situations.
Whenever the petticoat feels like it's "not quite full enough" under your dress.
a hoop to replace is better than the weight of two petticoats.
If in doubt, the best thing to do is ask a professional...that is always the best policy
anyone can have. if you current full-service professional is not available or you have
bought/considered a dress from a discount service, I would be happy to answer any
questions you might have.
When should I NOT consider a hoop?
Equally important to when to wear a hoop is when NOT to, when a simple petticoat is your
best option if you wear anything at all. Generally the following are when to wear just a
petticoat:
If a cotton petticoat is used, any dress from 80-115" will work, depending on the
fabric. Softer fabrics need more petticoat fullness and flounces, so watch for those
fabrics and ask a costumer/consultant familiar with hoopskirts for help.
If a purchased acetate/netting petticoat is used, medium weight (no soft satins or silks)
skirts from 80-115" will work if the bridal version is used.
In terms of support, the hoopskirt is the best choice--it is lightweight, uses a single
layer, and does the job with one what the petticoat often needs 3 or more to
achieve.
Hoopskirts also tend to be made of cotton instead of the acetate used by most bridal slip
manufacturers--it's washable, durable, and usually both more comfortable and better sewn.
In terms of occasion to use a hoop, a hoop is suitable for any gown with a skirt
circumference of 120" or more--which includes many "A line" gowns. Names
are deceiving on gowns when it comes to fullness. One person's A line might be several
inches wider than another company's full skirt. The best way to know if a hoop is a viable
option for you is to take a yard stick or tape measure and carefully measure around the
hemline. If it's over 115, you might consider a 90" hoopskirt without flounces. If
the skirt is 180 or more (the typical full skirt bridal gown), you really ought to wear at
least a 90" hoopskirt. Skirts over 200 " should consider 135" or even
150" hoops or a 90" and a flounced petticoat if you're not so sure you want the
width but know you need the support.
Generally my advice is to steer clear of "bridal petticoats" because of their
poor quality and very inefficient use of fabric. You don't SUPPORT a soft fabric with
another SOFT fabric. Crisp, medium to medium-light fabrics work best for that. Believe it
or not, your cotton full skirt with lots of ruffles sitting in your closet right now might
actually support your bridal gown better than a fancy "bridal slip" you can
buy!! It's tried and true and works well...at least under some ball
gowns I've played with.
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